The small town of Albano on Lago di Albano, less than an hour's drive from Rome, is unfortunately rarely visited by tourists, although there was a very important Roman camp there, the remains of which can still be seen. Emperor Constantine also built a basilica there, which is remarkable in itself. Finally, Albano is one of the seven suburbicarian bishoprics of Rome.

There are four things to report from a trip to Albano during Advent:

1. The church of Santa Maria della Rotonda is built into a thermal complex of the Roman camp and, in addition to the marvellous icon of the Virgin Mary, houses a medieval fresco cycle about the discovery of the Holy Cross by Empress Helena.
2. The diocesan museum, run by Roberto Libera, a member of the RIGG, is small but very well looked after and well worth a visit. It has a marvellous ceremonial hall with 18th/19th century landscape vedute. The museum is housed in the baroque bishop's palace. Some believe that this palace was built over the Constantinian basilica, as an early baptistery was found in the courtyard.
3. The best food in Albano can be found in the Bottega Pia (see picture below) - booking is essential as the restaurant is tiny (it's a bottega!).
4. A good glass of red wine in the Bottega Pia will make up for the sight of the Advent decorations at the Porta Pretoria: There is an antique fake Jupiter altar in the middle of the field of shepherds in Bethlehem (see the picture).

 

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